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MAATWERK MAAKT DE MAN

CUSTOMIZATION MAKES THE MAN

Normally we would be surrounded by brides and grooms at this time of year, as May and June are traditionally the most popular wedding months, with September a close third. Due to the corona crisis, all weddings have been postponed, but little by little, weddings can now take place again. Good thing, too. Now I fell into two pitfalls in my own marriage and I would like to protect others from that. First of all, I should never have proposed to my wife in Las Vegas because it is the least romantic city in the world. Secondly, because of the haste in which everything had to be done, I missed the opportunity to have a special suit fitted for the Big Day. (That did not make much difference to the witness on duty, because in our case that was the elderly organist who was not only almost deaf, but also almost blind.)

Anyway, I just want to say: don't make the same mistake I did. Make sure that the most beautiful day of your life not only takes place in a romantic location, but also that you appear smart in a suit that day. After all, it is not only the happiest day of your life, but probably also the most photographed. My suggestion in this case: choose a tailor-made suit. I blindly assume that you have a great athletic figure, but believe me, not every man's body is balanced down to the smallest millimeter. There is always one higher shoulder, a slightly bulging stomach or a piano key bone that is playing up because you once broke your collarbone. That is why the most important choice you make when purchasing a tailor-made suit is the choice of your tailor. A jacket is simply straight in itself. As soon as you put it on, it changes shape – it adapts to your body. A good tailor, now called a tailor-made specialist , will see upon arrival that you are tall and lean slightly forward, for example, causing your jacket to slide back at the neck (the so-called tortoise syndrome). Or he signals that one shoulder is lower than the other, which is the case with almost all men (my left shoulder is a good centimeter lower). A tailor can take this into account when measuring. In fact, it is the job of a tailor to visually remove all imperfections, both small and large. Experience is crucial here. Example: if you are a regular visitor to the gym and have an impressive chest, the lapels of a jacket will bulge as soon as you close the jacket. This is inevitable because off-the-shelf jackets are not made for bodybuilders. But a tailor will add a dart on the inside of the jacket that, as it were, pulls the jacket over your chest. That it seems as if the fabric of such a jacket falls around you - the highest possible.

I blindly assume that you have a great athletic figure, but believe me, not every man's body is balanced down to the smallest millimeter.

If you are of the school that wants to look wider, a tailor can also fix that for you. He then secretly adds half a centimeter of fabric to both sides of the jacket, from your waist to the shoulder. The shoulder is then pulled slightly over the top muscle in your arm on both sides. The back of the jacket then takes the shape of a chalice and voila, an Olympic torso that doesn't even require going to the gym!

There are countless, often small points that a good tailor not only sees, but which he knows how to sculpt into the ideal suit for you with knowledge and craftsmanship. You then combine this with your own wishes regarding the color and fabric. If you get married in the summer, linen is the 'coolest' option. If you don't like a wrinkle in the fabric, you can switch to seersucker or jersey (also called tricot). Or very original: summer tweed, which is very light and wafer-thin.

In short, plenty of choices; a good tailor will guide you through all those options. And if you doubt the feasibility of all this, know that customization is now very affordable. For a reasonable amount you have trousers and a jacket that are completely adapted to your body. Now you just have to find a bride, buy a ring, get down on your knees and voila: you can get married in style.

Are you curious about our customization? Read here more about.

Arno Kantelberg is editor-in-chief of Esquire .
As the style pastor of the Netherlands, he guides men through the minefield of good taste. Every other week he writes a style column for OGER as a guest editor on The OGER Journal.

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